Writing this last entry of our Europe trip on board the plane to India. The trip was a memorable, once-in-a-lifetime affair. As I look back, these must be the highlights of our trip:
> The Sistine Chapel and “David” – Michelangelo’s masterpieces
> St. Peter’s Basilica and St. Peter’s Square – home to the largest religion in the world
> The Collosseum
> Trevi Fountain – am waiting for my wish to come true
> Pizzas and pastas – the way the Italians have it
> Swiss countryside and the Alps – picture perfect.
> Swiss culture and efficiency
> Eiffel Tower – by day and night, from below and atop.
> The Louvre and the Mona Lisa
> Cruises on the River Seine and Lake Thun
> Amsterdam – the ‘liberated’ city
That’s it then. So long. Till next time…
Monday, February 15, 2010
Europe Trip: Day 16: Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Hyderabad – (Final entry)
Europe Trip: Day 15: Amsterdam
The last day of our Europe trip. Today was spent a little lazily, and justifiably so, before we get back to the usual hustle-bustle of daily life back in India.
Got up late and then went for a canal cruise through Amsterdam. Amsterdam is incidentally the big daddy of water canals. In fact, the whole city is a network of mini-islands and joined together by around 1200 bridges. The canals serve as the main transportation routes and in fact, DHL has its own parcel boats that deliver packages using these waterways! And to think, we associate canals only with Venice.
There’s also something very interesting I learnt about the houses in Amsterdam. Since the land space is limited, most houses have very narrow staircases. This means that it is impossible to move furniture to higher floors from within the house. So there are hoisting beams in front of all the houses along the canals. That’s how furniture gets moved into the higher floors of the houses.
In the evening, we went to the Dam Square and sat around listening to live musicians like many other tourists. Saw some quaint ‘cycle-rickshaws’ if you please, which reminded us of those back in India.
Probably, that’s when it hit us. Our Europe trip was over and early tomorrow morning we take our flight back to India. Sigh! Do we really have to go back? Can’t this trip continue forever?!?
Europe Trip: Day 14: Amsterdam
Within no time, we were in Brussels, the Belgian capital (home to Poirot, Tintin and the ‘Manneken Pis’). Then, the train took us onwards to Antwerp (the place with the diamond connection) and then Rotterdam (one of the busiest ports in the world) before finally reaching Amsterdam.
In Amsterdam, we walked to the quaint Haarlem district where our apartment was located. We were surprised by the number of bicycles on the streets and in the parking lots. Learnt later that about 100,000 bicycles are stolen in Amsterdam every year – just imagine how many there must actually be then!
Amsterdam is, of course, the most ‘liberated’ city in the world, with legalized drug usage, prostitution and euthanasia. Most of the tourists are here for a ‘high’ (literally!) and I did see lot of young Brits around, whatever that meant.
Today, we just walked around the streets of Haarlem soaking in the local atmosphere. As the evening sets in Amsterdam, the street cafes get busy. Beer flows (after all, this is Heineken country!) and you can spot the odd tourist rolling up as you walk past the café windows. Although I didn’t try it myself (I don’t smoke), I was told the stuff is quite potent. I can just imagine a few of my friends for whom this place would be heaven. Ha!
Europe Trip: Day 13: Paris
Then we walked down the famous Champs-Élysées, the fashion street of the fashion capital of the world. Showrooms and offices of Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Mont Blanc and Claridges beckoned us to window-shop. (There was no way we could have done anything else!).
In the evening that day, we made our way to the Montmartre village district. A famous address lay at the bottom of the Montmartre hill climb – the Moulin Rouge.
We walked our way on the cobbled streets all the way up to the Sacré-Cœur Basilica at the top of the hill. The atmosphere nearby was like a small carnival - open air cafes, live musicians and artists and of course, various milling tourists and locals. Perfect place for a first date, I said to K. She smiled and nodded her agreement.
Well, the day was about to get even better as we made our way to a cruise on the River Seine. As the sun started to set over the horizon, we travelled along the river soaking in the various other sights of Paris that we had missed – the Musée d'Orsay (home to famous works of Van Gogh, Monet and Renoir among others), the Place de la Concorde (where the guillotine once stood during the French Revolution) and under the oldest bridge in the Paris, the Pont Neuf.
So, that was Paris – all welcoming and embracing all cultures. Crowded, yet lively and utterly charming.
Traveler Tip: Paris has a superb metro network. Get yourself a metro map and the Carnet booklet of tickets (11 euros for 10 tickets) and you are set to explore Paris on your own. No two places in Paris are far and can be reached through maximum one train changeover. Definitely the best way to get around.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Europe Trip: Day 12: Paris
Our first stop was the Louvre. The Louvre is arguably the world’s most famous and largest museum. It can take probably two full days to explore it fully.
We entered through the famous glass pyramid and made our way through the various corridors admiring the priceless paintings and sculptures, including the ornate Napoleon Gallery.
We were thrilled to see the original Mona Lisa and many other famous works of art like the “La Vierge aux rochers” (“Virgin of the rocks”) painting and the sculpture of Aphrodite known as the “Venus di Milo”.
Just when we were about to leave, we saw the famous 2 inverted pyramids, made famous in the movie “The Da Vinci Code”.
From the Louvre, we walked down the Rue de Rivoli to the beautiful Notre Dame de Paris cathedral. The construction of the cathedral was spread over 2 centuries and finally saw completion in 1345. At the very top is a thirteen-ton bell named Emmanuel.
Our next stop, while walking along and over the River Seine, was the Soufflot Pantheon. The Pantheon is not nearly as old or famous as the Roman one but makes up for it in architectural beauty. The French architect Soufflot designed this Pantheon and the Latin Quarter, as the area around it is known.
This evening we were blessed with great weather and we moved now to the Tour de Eiffel (Eiffel Tower).
The most famous landmark in Paris gets a lot of tourists and we had to get into a long queue for tickets to the top of the tower (the Sommet).
Once at the top, you are witness to a most incredible view of Paris. You can see in the distance, the Arc de Triomphe standing proudly, the Bois de Boulogne with its symmetric gardens and the River Seine snaking its way through the city. It’s also incredibly windy and chilly and we hugged our jackets and ourselves tightly together for a few quick photographs.
Well, it appears as if Gustave Eiffel did have his set of famous admirers too. Like inventor Thomas Edison who paid him a visit on 10th September 1889 at the small apartment on top of the tower that Eiffel reserved for intimate receptions with prominent guests. This moment has been recreated in the apartment and shows Edison offering Eiffel a model of his well-known phonograph.
We hung around the Eiffel Tower till the sunset. That’s when you get to see a glittering lights show on the tower, until the sky gets completely dark and the tower lights up in all its splendor.
Europe Trip: Day 11: Bern, Paris
Hopped onto the TGV Express from Bern to Paris. What was supposed to be one of the fastest trains in the world, turned out to be only moderately faster than an Indian Shatabdi, and stopped quite frequently.
Finally reached Paris in late afternoon and made our way to Hotel El Dorado (a Lonely Planet recommendation). Our room in this hotel was lousy – no safety, a lot of noise from outside and no ventilation too. We decided to wait out the night, and then look for a new hotel next morning.
Traveler tip: Don’t believe everything the Lonely Planet tells you. It’s best to check other tourists’ reviews before selecting your hotel on a backpacking holiday. Some good self-research on the Net helps.
Europe Trip: Day 10: Interlaken, Berne
In the morning, we walked around Interlaken visiting an old church and sitting on a park bench watching the paragliders land. Interlaken, we concluded, is a town of tourists only – we could only see hotels, restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops everywhere.
The Interlaken to Berne train journey was uneventful and we spent our final evening in Swizerland, playing card games in our room and reminiscing on the beautiful sights of this beautiful country.
There is something else that I discovered – why the Swiss are able to make the best watches in the world. Switzerland is not just picture perfect; it is a country driven by precision and efficiency. If the bus timetable says the bus will arrive at 16:42, it will arrive at 16:42. If it says it will reach the 3rd stop at 16:57, it will reach the 3rd stop at 16:57. Such kind of efficiency and discipline should be a lesson for countries around the world. It’s also a big planning plus for tourists like us.
Europe Trip: Day 9: Interlaken
Woke up this morning in Interlaken in the ‘attic’ room of our hotel. What sounded like a fantastic room with a grand view turned out to be a bit like a cubbyhole and was a little cramped. The Lotschberg Hotel has great guest reviews and an endearing personal touch, just that our room seemed a tad more expensive for what it was. But then Switzerland is among the more expensive European holiday destinations.
We spent a leisurely day in Interlaken, strolling through its streets, surveying its numerous chocolate and souvenir shops (This is the home of the best chocolates and army knives, remember?). In the evening, K and I got on board a ferry that was bound towards Thun. This cruise on the Lake Thun really made our evening – cool breeze in our faces as the picturesque Swiss countryside sailed by.
Oh by the way, I have to say this – The Swiss must be the friendliest, most helpful people in the world. Fritz, who was the owner of our hotel, offered excellent advice and morning breakfasts. When we got a little confused on board a bus in Engelberg, a couple helped us decode the driver’s French instructions and helped us get safely to the train station. On board our cruise on Lake Thun, an elderly Swiss man came over himself from his dinner table and offered to take our photographs. Finally, I can never forget the lady who helped us get back to Interlaken from a desolate middle-of-nowhere bus station. She herself walked with us to the bus timetable and helped figure out the only way to get back to Interlaken through complicated bus and train changeovers. We may have not made it back to Interlaken that evening without her help.
Here’s a heartfelt thanks to all those who made our trip memorable.
Europe Trip: Day 8: Luzern, Engelberg, Mt.Titlis
On reaching Engelberg, we took a couple of mountain gondola (ropeway trolleys) to reach the final stop. Here we boarded the Rotair, the world’s only Rotating trolley. The view outside the moving Rotair was spectacular, and you could hear the twinkling of cow bells from hundred of metres away.
Once we got off the Rotair, we took a snow ski flyer to go the next stop. Now finally, after some many trains, trolleys, ski flyers, we reached our destination – Mt.Titlis, at an altitude of 10,600 feet.
We did this really exciting thing called ‘snow tubing’ here. You basically sit in a circular snow tube (more like a tub, actually) and race down a steep snow slope with sharp bends. Exhilarating, heart-stopping stuff! K and I freaked out completely.
We also realized how popular Switzerland is for Indian tourists. Not only do you see many Indians (especially honeymoon couples) in trains and on roads, Indian-ness is also reflected elsewhere. So, you get local food customizations like the tandoori vegetarian pizza at the restaurant on Mt. Titlis. The music playing inside the Rotair was from “1942, A Love Story” and believe it or not, safety instructions were also mentioned in Hindi alongside other European languages.
Europe Trip: Day 7: Luzern, Switzerland
In the evening in Luzern, we took a leisurely walk through the streets to go to the Lion Monument. The Lion Monument is located in a cozy park surrounded by a small pond, trees and flowers. The monument is in memory of Swiss guards who were killed in 1792 during the French Revolution.
The other place worth visiting in Luzern is the Chapel Bridge. This is the oldest surviving wooden bridge in the world and is over 600 years old. Inside the bridge are series of paintings that depict Luzern’s history. In the middle of the lake connected to the bridge is also the Water Tower, another 13th century construction.
Europe Trip: Day 6: Florence and Venice
Venice is actually a small town and gives you a Chandni Chowk feel, although it has less slightly hustle-bustle and more tourist shops than anything else. But the similarity lies in maze of narrow bylanes where you can get completely lost. Suddenly the lanes open up to a small canal with a bridge on top. As you stand on these bridges, you can see the gondolas and other boats sail by below you.
The amazing thing however is that you can find your way around just using a street map and following the signages on the buildings along the lanes of Venice. This is how we made our way to the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square).
The St. Mark’s square is a beautiful large square in the courtyard of the grand St.Mark’s cathedral. The square is dotted with numerous street cafes with live musicians – ideal for a romantic cup of coffee with your loved one. Another common tourist activity is to feed the hundreds of pigeons that walk and fly around in the Piazza.
The square also connects to the grand canal and a walk along the Venetian waterfront is an experience to remember. We wrapped up the day with a souvenir purchase (a Venetian mask, what else!) and a couple of very refreshing and delicious vodka, rum and mojito shots at a fruit juice shop called Frutulla.
Traveler Tip: Unless you are really, really interested in a gondola ride, you can give it a miss. Its exorbitant and honestly, a little over-hyped. I hardly saw any tourists taking the ride, so I’ve probably figured out the cost-benefit equation right.
We move from Italy tomorrow. It has been a wonderful 5 days – of art, history and scenic splendor. Have dropped off a couple of coins in the Trevi Fountain. Hope our wish for a return visit comes true!
Europe Trip: Day 5: Florence and Venice
We had planned for half a day more in Florence before driving on to Venice. So early today, we made our way to the Galleria della Accademia in Florence, home to one of the world’s most famous works of art – the statue of David by Michelangelo.
Giorgio Vasari describes David as : “Never has there ever been a pose so fluent, or a gracefulness equal to this, or feet, hands and head so well related to each other with quality, skill and design.” When you see David, you understand exactly what he meant.
The Academia also houses some fine works of Allesandro Allori (painter), Lorenzo Bartolini (sculptor) and an exhibit of “La Geometria Della Forma” by Mapplethorpe. But needless to say, it is David and David alone that holds your attention and in fact, is the very reason the Galleria was built in first place around the sculpture of David.
That over, we started over long drive towards Venice, our final stop in Italy. We drove through the picturesque Tuscany countryside, over green hills and meadows under the warm July sun. Tuscan vineyards have given the world some of the most exquisite wines and life here is considered pure bliss.
As the Lonely Planet describes Tuscany, “People here are not catching up with the world; the world’s catching up with them.”
We reached Venice early evening and dropped off the car.
Traveler Tip: The GPS in your rented car is a very useful and almost essential device to find your way on foreign roads but it comes at a very hefty price. So make sure you do your economics right before hiring a car and GPS. Train travel, though offering less flexibility, might just be a more economical option.
Europe Trip: Day 4: Pisa and Florence
Pisa is of course famous for the Leaning Tower.
It is a tricky thing to photograph the Leaning Tower with you standing in front if it. You never know if you are holding the camera straight! And so after a couple of photos where the Leaning tower did not lean at all or leaned more than it actually leaned (it actually became quite hilarious!), we got a good set of photographs.
By the way, you can climb the Tower – it’s just that you need to shell out 15 euros for it. Even then I was wondering if the view from the top would enable us to see the whole of Pisa and it might just be worth it. Then K offered some sound logic, “The only thing worth really seeing in Pisa is the thing that you’ll be standing on top of! What’s the point?” Ha, I think we’d rather roam around the Leaning tower and admire the neighboring cathedral while sipping coffee at a roadside café.
We drove then to Florence and checked in to our hotel for the evening.
Florence is a quaint Italian town with almost as rich a history as the Italian capital. Home to some of the greatest Renaissance artists, including Michelangelo Buanarotti, the town is all art and history.
We made our way next to the Duomo, the main cathedral and square in Florence. Actually, “Duomo” means cathedral church and the majestic building before us went by the more technical name of Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore. It’s a gigantic building with an impressive dome and some stunning engraving and architecture on the exterior.
Our dinner that night was an unforgettable experience. The sights and sounds of the Piazza Republica are still vivid in my mind. We sat at a roadside restaurant sipping wine, listening to street musicians on their guitars and flutes. In the background, was a festively lit merry-go-around that moved along slowly in front of the majestic Republica building. Beautiful.
Europe Trip: Day 3: Rome
The central arena (about 80 by 50 metres) used to comprise of a wooden floor covered by sand. Below this floor lies an elaborate labyrinth called the hypogeum (meaning ‘underground’) which was where the gladiators and wild animals were kept before the contests began.
Another very interesting thing about Rome is the number of fountains that dot the city. Most of these have water taps which have perfectly drinkable water.
Traveler tip: Unless you are one of the paranoid hygienic types, fill up on your water supply at these various fountains while you walk around Rome. Everybody does it, and the Italians endorse it too. The ones where you see a sign saying “Aqua non Potable” should be avoided. These are not suitable for consumption. T
The evening was again spent at the Fontana di Trevi. It has to be amongst the most romantic places of all. You can spot the old and the new holding hands sitting along the fountain, and it is one of the best settings to propose. It’s always full of smiling tourists and locals and of course, you can’t miss the Bangaldeshi street salesman selling red roses and toys who scamper when the local policeman comes chasing.
So that was Rome - beautiful, artistic, steeped in history and a place I would definitely want to come back once again. Ciao!
Europe Trip: Day 2: Rome by foot
We headed first to the famous Vatican City, home to the St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel. It happened to be the last Sunday of the month, so the entry was free (saved 12 Euros per person) but that also meant there was a kilometer long line of tourists waiting to get in (seriously, not kidding).
Tragedy struck however, as soon as we crossed the long line and got into the museum and were about to get into the first hallway inside. Our camera - beloved, expensive, just-bought-before-the-trip camera – fell and the viewfinder display went blank. It was like heartbreak and whatever we did, it didn’t come on.
Resigned to our fate, we almost walked through the many winded hallways of the Vatican Museum being able to hardly appreciate the priceless and exquisite artifacts from across the world. That was till we entered the Sistine Chapel.
The moment you step foot into the Sistine Chapel and look up at the ceiling, you cannot suppress a “Wow!” The entire ceiling of the chapel, 12000 square feet of it, is covered with Michelangelo’s masterpiece. The famous “Creation of Man” is in the centre of the chapel ceiling.
Apparently Michelangelo spent four years painting the chapel ceiling and finally even refused his commission! (Talk about somebody’s priorities in life.)
Anyway, the Sistine Chapel is also the seat of the Vatican cardinals’ conclave for the election of the Pope. On the occasion of a conclave, a chimney is installed in the roof of the chapel, from which smoke arises as a signal. If white smoke appears, created by burning the ballots of the election and some chemical additives, a new Pope has been elected. If a candidate receives less than a two-thirds majority, the cardinals send up black smoke—created by burning the ballots along with wet straw or chemical additives—it means that no successful election has yet occurred. You might have seen this in the recent movie “Angels & Demons”.
Past the Sistine Chapel, we walked through some more hallways, and finally came out in front of the St. Peter’s Basilica where you can see the whole wide expanse of the Piazza St Pietro (St. Peter’s Square). I felt humbled, standing as I was, in the heart of the largest religion in the world. And how many people around the world would love to be here once in their lifetimes. Felt lucky.
We walked out of the Piazza, had a pasta lunch (what else!) at a roadside café and then bought a new camera. Ready to start clicking again!
The great thing about Rome is all you need to explore it is a map. All tourists carry one and all cafes or hotels will freely give you one. It looks like the one below. Quite detailed and simple to follow.

Anyway, we then walked towards the Castel Sant’ Angelo. It looked like just another building in picturesque Rome, so we didn’t explore it thoroughly. (I didn’t realize until later back in India and after I saw “Angels and Demons”, that this building houses the supposed Illuminate lair and is where the ‘Preferiti’ are imprisoned in the book and the movie.)
We then made our way to the famous Piazza Navona where I discovered another example of how Romans keep their city beautiful. Just before the Piazza, there was a building under restoration. In order to maintain the artistic beauty of the neighbourhood, a huge painting (of the building exterior) covered the entire 50 odd feet of the building’s length. In fact, you could almost walk down the street not realizing there is a building under restoration. Artistic beauty truly preserved.
The Pantheon, the oldest monument in Rome, was our next stop (we are still walking by the way). This monument was built way back in 27 BC - that makes it over 2000 years old!
Step inside and you see the perfectly rounded interior – the height to the oculus at the top and the diameter of the inner circle is exactly the same (about 142 feet), meaning a huge sphere of that diameter can fit perfectly inside the Pantheon. Amazing!
This was a long day. We also visited the Spanish Steps (a popular tourist destination) and the Piazzo Venezia (a beautiful building) and picked up some souvenirs from a local market, all the while admiring how the whole city seemed to have only cobbled streets. We reached our hotel finally, dead tired from all the walking but thrilled nonetheless to be here.
Europe Trip: Day 1: “All roads lead to Rome”
Trip of a Lifetime
Saturday, February 13, 2010
The Beginning
It started in a room in Interlaken, Switzerland. As I looked out of our attic window on a lazy holiday afternoon and saw the picturesque mountains of the Alps with the occasional para-glider over the green valleys, I started writing.
I’ve been meaning to write yes, and for a long time too, but somehow the meaning never translated to something on paper or rather a webpage.
So, here goes, my first online writing pursuits. My thoughts, travels, experiences now taking a digital identity!